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Saturday, October 13, 2012

My Berkeley Summer


Dolly's Port Side



Recycled Nature Center Aquarium Cabinet
My Beautiful Assistant

Tessie and I spent our summer in the Berkeley Marina where I worked as a Recreation Activities Leader for the City of Berkeley from June thru August. Prepping for our trip south involved renovating Dolly the Cargo van to Dolly the Camper Van. This is a building project of mine that would last the entire summer. The process included adding insulation, installing counters/cabinets, a functioning kitchen (including plumbing), a settee/bed conversion, and exterior paint job. Thanks out to Wayne for cutting the insulation panels into manageable pieces and Roz and Annette for the use of their Anacortes garage! 

Our Hero Meg
Our trip south to California in Dolly (named so for her impressive rack) included stops in Port Townsend to visit with Corine, Jak, and puppy Piper; Bremerton to visit Carol and her kitties and plant a vegetable garden; and Mt. Shasta to hang out with Meg, our sweet San Felipe friend. 
Back in Berkeley on Scott's Boat
Little Tessa
Tess and I stayed on a sailboat in the marina and had such fun hanging out with Janet and dog Sammy and Clara and Sarah. Many thanks for the loan of household goods from all. It was simply wonderful to see Jolanda and Tod and meet their new baby girl Tessa! Other visits included dinner at Marion's with her and Phoebe; watching the Olympics with Kathy and Carol Beth; hanging with Melissa, Greg, and Mattie; Picante's with Captain Rich; lunch with Rachel; Indus Village with Jim; visiting with Dara, Sasha, and Jake; dinners with Joel; seeing Jon, Karen, and Edgar; and partying with Abby, Karen S., Frances, Sam, Nancy, the AP staff, and Nature  Center staff Patty and Tomas. Whew!
Adventure Playground Crew
Jon Hard at Work
Working with returning staff in Adventure Playground (AP) was a definite highlight of my summer as we welcomed three new staff into the fold.  It was especially rewarding witnessing the two young men I had mentored as kids (Jon and Andrew) develop into excellent trainees. Mama Bird was very proud! 
Getting Ready for Summer
For those unfamiliar with Berkeley's Adventure Playground, it is a City of Berkeley park that opened in 1978 as part of an adventure playground movement sweeping the U.S. in the late 70's. Adventure playgrounds originated in post-World War 2 Europe when it was observed that kids preferred to play in the rubble from the war than in organized playgrounds. Adventure playgrounds reflect the personality of the communities in which they "live". Being set in a marina away from residential neighborhoods has helped keep Berkeley's AP "junkyard" playground style alive (one of only 3 still open in the U.S.) - that, and the unwavering support of the City of Berkeley who understands and appreciates the value of this unique and precious resource. 
Alex, Loren, and Youth Volunteer Joyce Link the Crow's Nest to the Spiral Fort
Loren, Joyce, Playground Kid Marina & Youth Volunteer Evan
Elements of Berkeley's AP include fort building, a climbing net, a zipline, reclaimed boats, gardens, balancing ropes, and a tire swing.  It's a child's paradise and a place where they can do whatever their imagination inspires in them. We teach them how to use real hammers and saws to build forts and small projects and give them buckets of paint to use as they wish. We average over 500 people each weekend day, including many international visitors who plan us into their itinerary. This popularity and reputation are reasons Newsweek ranked us one of the nation’s top ten play spaces for kids.

Loren and Alex Celebrate Moustache Day
Sky
Summer is especially fun in AP, being open 7 days a week! Monday thru Friday we offer activities for the public, everything from bench building, mural painting, and candle making to fishing off the pier, making solar ovens, and playground olympics (including sawing and hammering contests!).  It's a lot of hard, dirty work but it sure is a lot of fun!
Picture Perfect
Building the Golden Gate Bridge
One of my highlights of the summer was teaching tool usage. There's nothing more satisfying then walking a kid through a creative concept and having them be successful. This life skill - the ability to execute a creative thought and the confidence that results from it - is the biggest reward for us 'kid folk'. Having a child exclaim, "I DID it!" after they sink that last nail or cut through a board with that last stroke of the saw really touches your heart. They then take that ability and new confidence out into the world. 
Scott Installing the World's Smallest Sink (Thanks, Jak!)
Obsessed with Squirrels!
Solar Powered Fort

Tess and I had such fun hanging out with our old friends in Antioch (Scott, Lianne, Sumi, and Chrisy). Many thanks to Scott for helping to complete Dolly's transformation. Had a blast hanging out in the Antioch heat eating ice cream, onion dip, and TJ's chips with you, buddy.  Also had some nice visits with my brother Daniel and sisters Robin and Cheryl. 
Fun Visit to Point Isabel (Dog) Park

Super Special Spectacular Sunday Crew
Other wonderful summer memories: Tess and I watching 4th of July fireworks from the top of an AP fort; catching up with old friends at the Lara Family Reunion in Penngrove; hanging out with Clara and Sarah at the kite festival; spending time with my AP peeps having spontaneous fun; my birthday day starting with Corine & Jak at Mama's Royal Cafe, lunch with Aunt Helen, and dinner and hot tub with Patty and Dave; and so many more to make it a terrific season. 
I Love These Crazies (AP Staff)!


Tess and I departed Berkeley on August 25th, stopped over in Mt. Shasta at Meg's, then home to Anacortes to reunite the family once again! It was great to be at our new home just in time to grab the end of summer and set out on a cruise of the San Juan Islands!


Alaska Adventure


Paid to Fish!!!!!!
Mendenhall Glacier 

May-Sept 2012.
I took a job in southeast Alaska running a sport-fishing boat this summer out of Auke Bay (near Juneau).  I was a captain & fishing guide out of Shelter Island, taking a total of 288 fishermen & women to have the Alaska experience (4 at a time).  This was an adventure I have always dreamed of…on a remote, Alaskan island working for a fishing lodge.  The lodge is off-grid. Everything is run by a generator or by propane. The only way in or out of the island is by boat. The lodge has a fleet of 7 boats, four main fishing boats, a landing craft, a work boat (to do fuel and propane runs in town) and one back-up boat. We would pick guests up at the airport then take them to Shelter Island via our boats.
In Every Color
Water Taxi to our Boats
Auke Bay
Deep Fried Rockfish
My boat named Ho’Okipa (means hospitality in Hawaiian) is a 2010 North River cabin cruiser. It is a 20-minute ride from Auke Bay to our mooring buoys in front of the lodge.  The landing-craft would take guests ashore to the lodge where they would enjoy the next 5 days of fishing and gourmet meals.  On staff we had two chefs, four captain/guides, and two lodge assistants who operate the landing craft and workboats.
Catch of the Day
The fishing was abundant, the weather cold, rainy wet and set inclement records this summer!  My wardrobe consisted of 5 layers of clothing, long johns, raingear and Xtratuff boots.  I did get a handful of sporadic sunny days while I was there, but only one day of short sleeves!
Yes, it's Real!
Jumbo Shrimp

My daily schedule was up at 5:00am, fishing until 4:30pm, processing fish until 6:30pm, dinner, and bed very soon after. I had one day off every 11 days.  I learned a lot about stamina, Alaska fishing conditions, rough seas, seasick guests, and catching a lot of fish.

Sablefish "Black Cod"
The fishing was amazing! Fishing for black cod (sablefish) down 2,000 feet, we used electric reels.  Salmon, (King, Silver, Chum, Sockeye, Pink), Pacific Halibut, Rockfish, Crabbing and Shrimping were also a part of the experience. Thank goodness for pot pullers, as the shrimp were down 350+ feet! 
I feel truly blessed to have experienced Humpback whales bubble-feeding on the surface with as many as 15 at once, some breaching – almost a daily experience on our way to the fishing grounds.  Orca sightings, Dall’s porpoises, seals, and otters were occasional sightings and quite amazing as well.


Home to Anacortes


Tessie's First Snow

We left San Felipe March 19, 2012 for our new home, Anacortes, WA, leaving behind many cherished memories of our friends and times there during the winter. We passed through Oregon during a snowstorm that approached a white out. We weren't in the Baja anymore! Tessie had her first romp in the snow.  We were happy to get through Oregon and into the Evergreen State where the only snow we could see was on the Olympic and Cascade mountain ranges.
Sunny 1 faired very well during our absence and it was good to be back sleeping on the water again. Liz started her BeachWatchers class with Washington State University at the end of March and Kathy completed her instructor certification with the Recreational Power Boat Association (a branch of the American Sailing Association) and has been making many maritime connections.
Heart Lake, Anacortes
The parks here are simply amazing. Anacortes has the highest percentage of public parklands per capita than any city in the nation. One of the areas within the city are the Anacortes Community Forrest Lands, 2,800 acres of lakes and hiking trails, all within the city limits. Another beautiful area in the city is Mt. Erie. Then there are beautiful local state parks, such as Deception Pass and Bowman Bay, and county parks, all within 20 miles. Put on your hiking boots!

Marina Fire
Too Close for Comfort!
On the evening of April 10, 2012 a boat only four slips away and across the dock caught on fire! We rushed outside to see a 29' powerboat completely engulfed in flames, fiberglass popping and noxious smoke billowing into the air. Our neighbor Dan (only 2 boats away from the fire) was yelling, "Fire!" You could feel the intense heat. Kathy grabbed our water hoses from the deck and headed over to the fire where we hooked up a third hose. Dan and Kathy kept 2 water hoses on the fire, while Liz (Tessie in one hand) kept a hose on the boats next to the burning boat and Dan's boat. Dan ended up untying the boat next to the flames and sending it floating across the fairway to awaiting liveaboards who secured the boat away from harm. Liz continued to water down Dan's boat while Kathy and Dan kept water on the burning boat, fully aware of the gas fuel tanks on board. As the fired burned fast and hot, we could hear 'whooshing' sounds and imagined it to be exploding aerosol cans. We later learned the guy had handguns and ammo onboard! We all literally dodged many bullets that night!
Aftermath Taken From the Bow of Sunny 1
The fire department arrived and eventually evacuated us to the parking lot, just in time for the gas tanks to explode! 150 gallons of gasoline in the water! During all of this, the fire burned through the lines of a burning boat on the other side of the initial burning boat and drifted across the fairway (on fire!) to the adjacent dock where a group of liveaboards wielded their garden hoses to keep the fire from spreading to boats on their dock. Liveaboards rock! The fire claimed four boats, two sinking in the night, and destroyed the dock.  The Washington State Department of Ecology arrived that night and began absorbing the gasoline. Unfortunately, being that gas shouldn't be contained because it is so volatile, much of the fuel was allowed to dissipate with the rains and currents. We are so grateful that it was dead calm that night. Any wind would have spread the fire quickly from boat to boat. They determined the cause of the fire to be a West Marine dehumidifier plugged in the V berth of the boat.

Spring is Springing
According to the locals, this spring and last have been colder and wetter than usual for this area. We have days of sunny between more days of overcast and rain. Anacortes and the San Juan Islands average only 20 inches of rain annually and are generally warmer than other areas of the state, such as Seattle. Bring on the sun, please!
Liz completed a Marine Naturalist certification program through The Whale Museum at Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. The course culminated with time on the water with the resident Orcas. Our class also had the honor of receiving the bones of Sooke, a young Orca from L Pod who mysteriously died off the coast of Oregon. For more information on Sooke http://www.whalemuseum.org/programs/stranding%20network/Sooke.html
Sooke's Teeth
The Whale Museum in Friday Harbor will be expanding to exhibit Sooke's skeleton, which will highlight the modern dangers these endangered species mammals face in our world. 

We really love Anacortes and invite you all to visit. It is a small town (population 17,000) located between the farmlands of the fertile Skagit River basin and the beautiful San Juan and Gulf Islands. The population of the entire county is only 116,000, yet is close to the population center of Bellingham and 1 1/2 hours from British Columbia. See ya soon - your bunk awaits!

Wrapping up the 2011/2012 Baja Season


Baja 250
Pit Crew: Meg, Lynda, Sharron, Lisbeth, Linda & Liz
We ended our Baja season with a bang! SCORE'S Baja 250 took place on March 11th in the San Felipe desert. The course passed only seven miles from our Baja home and what a party it was! The local entry was Team Snarlin' Cholla, led by George Jackson, the local reptile expert and an all-around nice guy. We joined our friends Linda, Lisbeth, Sharron, Lynda, Meg, Nancy and Katie (whose husband/dad rode shotgun) at a pit stop 8 miles out in the desert. A delicious shrimp taco lunch prepared by Lisbeth and Sharron was enjoyed by all. Some legs of the race allowed the vehicles to travel over 120 mph across the desert floor! The dirt road course at our location was a twisted series of moguls and turns that proved very entertaining for us spectators and an exercise in foul words for the drivers as they careened their rigs through flying rocks, dirt, and dust.

While the 250 was an exciting event, it was also disturbing to experience the transformation of the beautiful desert to a landscape of Tecate cans, trampled brush, and destroyed habitat. Truckload after truckload of young men and families arrived at 'our' spot with their nightclub sized speakers and ice chests full of beer. More than one truck got stuck in the sand and, at times, they pulled each other across the racetrack! There were no protective barriers anywhere to keep people away from danger. One tradition is to try to touch the car as it passes. Supposed to be good luck! At least one person dies each year from this or other unfortunate incidents.
After the 'big boys' passed through (cooperate-sponsored vehicles with chase helicopters, etc.), the crowd moved on down the course and we enjoyed the remainder of the race with room to breathe. George ended up third in his class (he was leading but stopped to help someone in trouble) and we ended up having a great day and bumpy ride back to the Ranch in Meg's awesome Suzuki Samurai. Can't wait till next year - what's on the menu Lisbeth?

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Casa de Fe

San Felipe’s local orphanage for girls is located 5 miles from us here at the Ranch. It was founded by an American couple, Bill and Carol Spradlin, and opened to their first girls in 2010. Currently, 8 girls ages 3 weeks to 10 years live there. The only assistance the Mexican government gives the home is a water subsidy – no monetary support is offered for these girls who have lost their families for various reasons. Casa de Fe is self-supporting through private donations and service organizations like the Rotary Club. A recent tragedy occurred for these kids when Carol Spradlin suffered a heart attack in town and died. Liz volunteered at the home and reports it is a loving, clean, and nurturing facility. Check out Casa de Fe San Felipe at www.sfcasadefe.com for more information.
Casa de Fe girls



Bahia Willard / Bahia San Luis Gonzaga
Camping at Papa Fernandez
Eleven bumpy miles beyond the end of Mexico Hwy 5 is Papa Fernandez at Puenta Willard. What a great little spot behind the sand dunes where they offer 9 palapas and something resembling outhouses. Again, camp was deserted and having the place to ourselves was simply terrific. No sign of camp dogs or coyotes the entire time. We stayed four nights and enjoyed a lot of fishing, reading, writing, campfires, and stars, stars, stars. We also had wind the first night and day but it all settled down to what would prove to be almost perfect weather. The restaurant at Papa’s is run by the Fernandez family and opens whenever you show up. The walls are covered with photos of Papa Fernandez with the likes of John Wayne and Baja legend Tony Reyes. Camping was only $5 a night! The doors were blown off the outhouses but who needs a door when you are the only ones there? What a view!
Grande Triggerfish!

Beach at Papa Fernandez
Anticipation




Birthday Fish for Tessie

Unlike Gonzaga Bay, the beach at Punta Willard is right on the Sea of Cortez and resembles the Northern California coast when the winds came and the surf picked up. There were tons of pelicans, herons, gulls, and Liz’s favorite bird, the Magnificent Frigate.
Kathy caught many Bullseye Pufferfish (Botete), Triggerfish, Spotted Sand Bass, Stingrays, and a Pacific Porgy. Liz caught some shuteye.
We picked up and drove over to Gonzaga Bay on Day 5, only a short 5 mile, 25 minute drive away. On our way, we stopped to visit the Federalies at the military checkpoint just outside of Gonzaga. Since we didn’t have any drugs, they let us continue on to our campsite at Rancho Grande on Gonzaga Bay.
Rancho Grande has 21 palapas right on the beach and a string of 21 outhouses (most with doors). The shore of the Bay is lined with these palapas, a string of houses, and Alfonsina’s hotel and restaurant. The fishing was slow (except for Botete and one sand bass) but the clamming made up for it. We enjoyed a beautiful, relaxing day.
Rancho Grande, Gonzaga Bay

Something that helped our trip be successful was to sleep in the back of the FourRunner and keep all of our gear in the tent. We discovered this after our first windy night at Papa’s. The wind will always pick up at night, guaranteed, gusting sometimes to 40 mph! After that sleepless night, we discovered the quiet and safety of the car (with an inflatable mattress, of course). We also discovered that Tessie doubled in size the minute we closed the doors…
Our last day at Gonzaga Bay began beautifully with fishing and coffee at the shore early in the morning. Then the winds started up and accelerated until we found ourselves in the middle of a sandstorm! We decided to call it a day. The local fisherman predicted the high winds would last a couple of days so packing up and leaving was a great idea.
Overall, our trip was thrilling, challenging, and a whole lot of Baja fun!
On the drive home to San Felipe we started spotting some of the racers coming into town for the Baja 250 to be held the weekend of March 10th. Sand rails, dirt bikes, and trophy trucks! Stay tuned for more…

Is it just me or is the road getting smaller (Sand Storm)

Kilometer 117


Sunbathing at Kilometer 117


Doink Doink
The extension of Mexican Hwy 5 south of Puertecitos is a recently paved highway until 127 kilometers south of San Felipe. Then, the road suddenly ends only to continue onto a rocky, dirt trail. Just 10 kilometers short of the end of the paved road is Marker 117, a nice pullout at the Sea’s edge. Easy access to the shoreline makes this lookout a favorite stop for travelers going both north and south.
Fishing Report from Kathy:
This 2-hour drive was well worth it as I hooked on to several spotted sand bass and triggerfish. Triggerfish feed by blowing jets of water at their prey, dislodging them for consumption, and are one of the most common reef fish south of San Felipe.
Bullseye Pufferfish, or Botete as the locals call it:
After losing a few rigs, I tightened my drag to the tightest point, determined not to let the next one get away. Doink, doink, Fish on! At first glance out of the water, it looked like a spotted sand bass but the shape was not quite right. When almost to shore its belly started inflating. It had no dorsal fin and had a ‘beak’ for teeth. Little did I know at the time, this fish is highly poisonous and has deadly skin and internal organs. Gulls have died just two minutes after pecking one. I released quite a few of these pests.
Bullseye Pufferfish "Botete"

Puertecitos Hot Springs

It is a 60-mile drive down Mexico Hwy 5 from San Felipe to the small town of Puertecitos. To call it a ‘town’ is an exaggeration. Sitting around the edge of the small bay are lonely houses some would call shacks; others would call them a dream home on the bluff. There are only dirt roads, a small store, and a Pemex gas station. They have a stop sign, too.
Sharron, Meg, Kathy, Tessie at Puertecitos

Hot Pools
Look a little longer and you’ll find the beauty of the place – the quiet of a living ghost town; the simple life of a fisherman and his panga; a retired American or Canadian far from ‘home’ on purpose. Hidden along the outer rocky shore of Puertecitos is a gem of a place – natural hot springs that cool with the incoming tide. We visited the pools with our friends Sharron and Meg and what a treat it was. The water and wind were calm that day and hundreds of pelicans rested right before us on the rocks, satisfied from a good morning’s catch. We began by entering the pools closest to the water’s edge. As the tidewaters rose and cooled off the natural lava-formed pools, we moved up to the next pool. It was a lovely 2-½ hour visit. Tessie loved the pools, too, and dove right in and swam around. It was a thrill to be sitting along the rocks as the seawater led schools of small anchovies over our legs! We finished off a perfect day with a stop at the famous Cow Patty for a cold drink and traditional hot dog.


Sisters of the Desert Valentine’s Day Brunch

Lisbeth & Liz
Valentine's Fiesta
Lisbeth and Linda hosted this annual event held for years at Carol and Jan’s. Sixteen sisters were in attendance for pancakes, French toast, Meg’s special egg soufflĂ©, and all the trimmin’s. Sharron played bartender and money was raised towards the college education of the young pups – Kaya (Sharron & Lynda’s border collie), Tessie (our girl), and Maddie (Lisbeth & Linda’s border collie). A good time was had by all!


Bahia Cristina
Fish on! We took a camping trip to Bahia Cristina, located just south of the town of Puertecitos. The camp has 6 palapas on the beach, which is a mix of sand and beautiful cobblestone rocks of green, purple, red, and gold. We had the place to ourselves, except for a resident coyote and heron.
Double Hook-up, Spotted Sand Bass!!

Camping the Baja peninsula has its challenges. The wind can come up in a split second and you are suddenly thrown into a grab-and-tie-down battle with the elements.
Uh Oh!
You struggle with the tarp to try and block the wind for a little respite, move the car around to the south side, the north side, the south side again. Not only is the wind unpredictable, it seems to come from all directions at once! During the calmer moments, we fished the rocky shore for a bonanza of spotted sand bass. We caught over 35 fish, keeping only enough for fish tacos and Tessie’s breakfast. She loves fish and she loves TO fish, joining Kathy in the water for every cast and retrieval.
When the second day brought rain, we discovered the only hole in the palapa roof was over our table. This made frying fish an exciting experience. If you’ve never fried fish in the rain, we don’t recommend it. We learned a lot on our first Baja camping trip that would prove useful later in the month. What a delightful place to camp and a good learning experience.

6th Annual Cancer Walk
Liz, Sue, Nell, Judy, Kip

Ready to Roll!
We participated in San Felipe’s Cancer Walk for the first time on February 25th. We walked in memory of Joyce Faletti (Liz’s mom), Susan Briant (Kathy’s mom), Andy Craig (Kathy’s dad), and Sharon Marcotte (our dear friend). There was an entry fee of $25 dollars with the option to fundraise. 100% of the money raised goes to support the cancer clinic in town. They are currently treating 34 women. The clinic’s primary focus is prevention. Their goal this year is to expand their services to include screening for prostrate cancer. The crowd was a mix of locals and ‘snow birds’. We felt very proud to be walking side-by-side with our new neighbors and friends. 


The Paella Festival
Mmmmmmmm!
Later the same day we wandered over to the Paella Festival held at the El Cortez Hotel. A dozen different restaurants from San Felipe to Mexicali offered their version of paella to the crowd, along with wine and tequila tasting. It was a fun time relaxing with friends, eating paella and ice cream, and listening to mariachi music. One thing we discovered is that if you all use the same required ingredients, your paella will all taste the same. Yummy leftovers for Tessie!

Liz sitting in with Mariachi band
Massani, Danna, Liz, Kathy